La Hora del Vermut
We're feeling nostalgic these days about traveling and touring different corners of the world. In this blog post our co-founder Julio tells us about one of his trips to Madrid, visiting its bars and drinking, of course, vermut.
It's 1:30 pm in Madrid and the offices are beginning to empty. Hundreds of workers are getting ready for lunch, but not before taking in “la hora del vermut."
Vermouth hour - having an aperitif before the main meal of the day - is a Spanish tradition that goes back generations. It is an experience, an excuse to see your friends and talk about the day as the flavors of the aperitif whet your appetite.
A fortified wine macerated with herbs and spices, vermouth has been made in Spain since the end of the 19th century when the drink, popularized in Italy first and then France, arrived in the Catalan city of Reus.
After meeting up with some locals, we sit down at a bar in the Malasaña neighborhood. In the background we overhear a saying that catches our attention: “one vermouth before lunch is wonderful; two is much better; three and you have already missed lunch."
Nobody can resist the explosion of flavors found in a well-made vermouth. Let’s take an example from one of the oldest and most classic bars in Madrid, Bodegas de la Ardosa. Opened in 1892, it maintains the decor of those times with a bright red door that invites us to enter.
Adorsa has maintained the tradition of making its own vermouth from a recipe created over 100 years ago. And you have to try it: poured from a tap over a couple of ice cubes, garnished with an orange peel and served with two salty Cantabrian anchovies. We feel at home.
Next we move on to Casa Baranda. This tavern is a tribute to the old barras of Madrid. Here not only is vermouth the star, but also sherry. Baranda has one of the most extensive lists in the Spanish capital. What a treat!
Our friend Rachel Schneidmill, a former Catadora who now lives in Madrid, tells us that vermouth is such a flexible drink that you can have it at any time of the day. "It's usually my first drink of the night before bar hopping,” Rachels says.
She recommends a list of places in the city where we can find more great vermouths, and we have to believe her!
The day seems like a lovely, endless adventure. Next we arrive in the Retiro neighborhood and sit down at La Catapa, where we order another vermouth and a couple of tapas. Our appetites continue to increase.
Somebody checks the time - it's 4 in the afternoon, and we have definitely missed our lunch!